We are finally back on the blog after four long months! Ellison and I are both excited to be posting again after our little hiatus and think that our Spring Break vacation is the perfect way to get back into it. So, we were lucky enough to join Trevor on a research trip to Hawaii's Big Island last week. Ellison and I hadn't been in almost two years and neither of us had ever been in the spring. We had a list of things we wanted to do and number one was going to Mauna Kea. When you think of Spring Break in Hawaii you probably don't think of cold weather, but in March snow still blankets the summit. Ellison and I were determined to go to the top - not only because the view is amazing, but also because it just seemed so cool to be able to play in the snow in the morning and then relax at a warm beach in the afternoon.
Go At 13,802 feet, the dormant volcano of Mauna Kea is the tallest point in the state - and if measured from it's base below sea level it would be the tallest mountain in the world, surpassing Mount Everest by almost 4,000 feet. Located in the northeastern part of the island, it's about an hour and a half hour from Kona to the west and a little less from Hilo in the east. Mauna Kea is a sacred site to native Hawaiians and is considered to be the home of Poli'ahu, a snow goddess. We had attempted this visit a few years before, but the roads were too foggy and it was just too dangerous to drive to the top. Since then the road (Saddle Rd.) has been improved and it is a much easier drive. Lucky for us, this time the sky were clear and visibility was fantastic.
If you plan to visit the summit, there are a couple of options - driving to the top yourself, driving to the visitor center and then hiking to the top or taking a guided tour from either Kona or Hilo. We chose to drive ourselves (this definitely requires 4-wheel drive - heed the advice!), which requires a stop at the visitor center (preceded by a stop at the Haleakala National Park playground) to acclimatize for at least half and hour before continuing to 13,800. Being from Florida where anything above sea level seems like a mountain, Ellison and I both definitely noticed the difference in altitude. It was recommended that only children older than 16 progress past the visitor center due to increased chances of altitude sickness, but we decided to risk it since we knew we weren't staying more than an hour (there is 40% less oxygen than at sea level at this high of an elevation).
If you plan to visit the summit, there are a couple of options - driving to the top yourself, driving to the visitor center and then hiking to the top or taking a guided tour from either Kona or Hilo. We chose to drive ourselves (this definitely requires 4-wheel drive - heed the advice!), which requires a stop at the visitor center (preceded by a stop at the Haleakala National Park playground) to acclimatize for at least half and hour before continuing to 13,800. Being from Florida where anything above sea level seems like a mountain, Ellison and I both definitely noticed the difference in altitude. It was recommended that only children older than 16 progress past the visitor center due to increased chances of altitude sickness, but we decided to risk it since we knew we weren't staying more than an hour (there is 40% less oxygen than at sea level at this high of an elevation).
We got there early in the morning and the visitor center was closed on our way up, but since there was at least a half hour to kill while acclimatizing we hiked a bit through the mountain scrub. There is a trail that leaves from the picnic area from which you can walk through the silversword garden (silversword plants are endemic to Hawaii, found only at high elevations and can live up to 90 years. That's right, 90 years.) and make an offering to family, the earth and various Hawaiian gods and goddesses at the ahulele (altar) as seen in the picture below. There are three different ahuleles at various spots on the way up and many people stop at each one in order to feel protected during their time on the mountain. You can also walk about 30 minutes to Lake Waiau, which is the highest lake in Hawaii and a very sacred site in Hawaiian culture. We wanted to check it out, but we were so excited to get to the summit that we decided to skip it. Ellison and I both wish we hadn't. Maybe next time.
The remainder of the drive up from the visitor center consists of a winding, mostly rocky road. Since we caught were here on a particularly clear day, the views extended all the way down to the vast expanse of Pacific Ocean - it was incredible.
The remainder of the drive up from the visitor center consists of a winding, mostly rocky road. Since we caught were here on a particularly clear day, the views extended all the way down to the vast expanse of Pacific Ocean - it was incredible.
There are a number of telescopes and observatories (representing 12 different countries) at the summit since Mauna Kea is known for having some of the world's best stargazing conditions. The telescopes are so much larger in person and Ellison and I felt dwarfed by their size. I didn't realize there were so many and they set a futuristic scene against the moonlike landscape of the mountain. Honestly, it was just way cooler than I had anticipated, but that seems to be the way it goes for me. Keeping my expectations in check. If you want more of these telescopes, you can check out a great online tour of the Mauna Kea observatories here. Ellison and I checked out each one online during our drive back to Kona.
Ellison and I really wanted to go on a stargazing tour, but younger children aren't allowed because of the previously mentioned altitude issue. Too bad. It is definitely something we put on the list for future visits, though. I guess way in the future since you have to be at least 16.
Ellison and I really wanted to go on a stargazing tour, but younger children aren't allowed because of the previously mentioned altitude issue. Too bad. It is definitely something we put on the list for future visits, though. I guess way in the future since you have to be at least 16.
The hike out to the summit point from the roadside parking isn't very long at all (maybe a 1/4 mile at most), but it offers some amazing views and a chance to experience the starkness of the volcanic landscape. Since it was late in the season, the snow was starting to melt and there were only patches left at the very top. Midwinter snow can blanket the entire mountain, leaving enough for both downhill and cross-country skiing. There are no ski lifts or anything like that, but the signs at the visitor center seemed to indicate that it happened on a fairly regular basis when there was enough snowfall.
We intended to hike around a little more than we actually did, but it was very windy and cold. Add to that Ellison's altitude headache (which I think was more likely due to the cold wind, but whatever, it was still killing her and she wanted back to the car asap) and our time on the mountain was cut short. But still long enough to take at least one family selfie to document our time at the top of Hawaii.
We intended to hike around a little more than we actually did, but it was very windy and cold. Add to that Ellison's altitude headache (which I think was more likely due to the cold wind, but whatever, it was still killing her and she wanted back to the car asap) and our time on the mountain was cut short. But still long enough to take at least one family selfie to document our time at the top of Hawaii.
We have traveled to the Big Island numerous times over the past five years, but never during the spring. While temperatures don't fluctuate much throughout the year, things like snow on Mauna Kea, humpback whale watching and a visit to a coffee plantation while the trees are in bloom simply aren't possibilities in the summer. These all helped make this one of our best visits yet and allowed us to experience the island in an entirely new way. Stay tuned for a post on whales and coffee...
See you back here soon!
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